Friday, October 14, 2016

Phuldungri - Tour Guide Blog

Life is a journey. We all know that. And we all make that journey in one form or other. Today I want to share a journey with you, - no, it’s not my journey. It’s the journey of my father. His last journey. It’s the journey that touched a chord of my heart and made me write this story. I submitted this story earlier in a contest, but in a slightly different format. 

As some of you may have read my profile, my father has been a big influence in shaping my life,- how I see this world, how I feel about the people I meet, how much I love to absorb the Nature around me. To me, he has always been bigger than life. He inspired me to settle in life the way I wanted, to do things I always wanted to do. He hasn’t traveled much, but he traveled through my eyes. He could paint the world looking through my eyes, his vision was wide enough to capture the universe. 

Why did I write this story? Well, I know there are certain debts in life that one cannot pay back, but acknowledge them only. My debt to 
He brought smiles to othersHe brought smiles to othersHe brought smiles to others
my father also I cannot pay, I will continue to acknowledge only. And this story is a tribute to my father on Father’s Day. 

The characters in the story have been modified for the sake of storytelling. Some locations are changed, some circumstances were modified. But that’s all about it. And the story was drawn from real life. 

I wanted to share this story with many of you. Whoever does read it, my sincere thanks to them! Hope you would like it. If you do, please share the link with others -http://bit.ly/1UVncLv . Oh, and one more request! If you feel sentimental reading the story, if it brings back some memories of the past, please drop a line in your comment. And that would be the true sharing! 
*****



Phuldungri


The Dragon Air flight from Hong Kong touched down at the Kolkata airport just after the midnight. Rumi was tired. She hardly had time to stretch her legs after a long fourteen hour flight from Vancouver to Hong Kong. The flight to Kolkata announced boarding within an hour. 

It had been a rough twenty four hours since she received a call in the middle 
My parents in New England with meMy parents in New England with meMy parents in New England with me
of the night from her elder brother Ashim in Kolkata. 

“Rumi, this is Ashim.” 

A premonition rippled through her mind. “Is everything alright, Dada?” Rumi used to call Ashim ‘Dada’ in the traditional way. 

“…umm, Baba is not doing so well, Rumi.” 

“What happened, Dada?” a shadow of anxiety grabbed Rumi in an instant. 

Rumi grew up studying in a local school in Phuldungri, a Ghatsila suburb. Her mother taught Rumi the values in life; she used to love her mother dearly, but her ‘Baba’, Animesh was her best friend. Rumi didn’t get to see much of Ashim. He was finishing his University in Kolkata and used to visit his home during his vacations. Lately, his visits became infrequent as he was busy finishing his studies. To Rumi, her ‘Baba’ was everything. 

“Baba took a fall and hit his head,” Animesh said. 

“Go on,” Rumi was holding her breath. 

“Well, I didn’t know…he didn’t phone me or something.” 

Rumi knew that is typical of ‘Baba’…he would never complain to anyone about his health. 

“Nihar uncle next door phoned me and I brought him and Ma to Kolkata. He was doing 
At camp site in Lake PlacidAt camp site in Lake PlacidAt camp site in Lake Placid
fine initially, but he has started losing his balance now.” 
“And?” Rumi was becoming impatient. 

“He has a clot in his head. He is admitted to the hospital.” 

Rumi didn’t delay a single moment. It was late fall. She had completed her Ph.D coursework and just finished her exam. She phoned her professor and let him know. She quickly packed her suitcase, took care of the travel documents, and went to the ATM machine to get some cash. By 9:00 am, she called the travel agent and they booked her on an afternoon flight from Vancouver to Hong Kong with a connection to Kolkata. 

It was a long, strenuous flight. She hardly ate anything on the plane. 

“Are you alright, Ma’am?” the lady air crew showed her concern. 

Rumi gave her a smile, ’Yes, Ma’am…I’m fine, thank you.” 

Rumi was thinking of her father and her good old days in Phuldungri. She could not separate one from the other. She also thought of her mother. There was a Tulshi sapling in the courtyard and a little altar. Her mother used to light ‘diya’ in the evenings and offered her ‘arti’ to the altar, 
Always contentAlways contentAlways content
her saree wrapped around her neck, “Om Jai Jagdish Hare…” My Lord, you are the savior. During Lakshmi puja at home, her mother used to paint rangoli on the floor. Animesh used to perform the puja. Rumi used to sit down patiently until the puja was over, then they used to share the offering to Lakshmi Devi. 

She was reminiscing about her days of yesteryears. Animesh used to work in the Ghatsila Railway station. The evenings were pleasant in the winter time. Rumi often used to go out with her father after Animesh came home from work. Sometimes they would go to the Suvarnarekha River. The water level was usually low at that time of the year and small streams of water used to make their way through the rocks and stones like a dancing little girl. Animesh allowed her to go in the water and play. Sometimes, they used to sit down by the river side and Animesh used to tell her, 

“Rumi, it’s a river which flows like a poem, it has many tales to tell if you want to listen.” 

Rumi asked, “What poem, Baba?” 

“Listen carefully, Rumi. It 
Cherry Blossom - Niagara on the LakeCherry Blossom - Niagara on the LakeCherry Blossom - Niagara on the Lake
has a rhythm that matches our life, - yours, mine, Ma’s, all of us.” Rumi was little, she couldn’t understand everything that Animesh said, but she tried hard to believe it. 

The plane flew into air turbulence. The seat belt sign came on. It’s pretty common on this Pacific route. Rumi’s chain of thought was lost momentarily. Once settled, she dived again into the ocean of good old memories. She cannot forget Phuldungri. Her roots are embedded there and will remain there forever. As she grew up, Rumi slowly built her world around Animesh. All this time, her life was revolving around ‘Baba.’ Whatever she did, it was his inspiration. 

“Learn to dream, Rumi; and live your dream. The whole world is waiting for you,” Animesh would tell her. 

After she finished her Master’s, when Rumi got a scholarship to pursue her Ph.D at the University of British Columbia, Animesh was over the moon. He was more excited than Rumi herself. 

Animesh didn’t want to move to Kolkata after his retirement. Both Rumi and Ashim stayed in Kolkata at that time. Ashim had accepted employment with an IT firm and Rumi was at the university. Whenever 
In the Tulip Park - Niagara on the LakeIn the Tulip Park - Niagara on the LakeIn the Tulip Park - Niagara on the Lake
she pestered Animesh about moving to Kolkata with her ‘Ma’, he would say, 

“My roots are here Rumi, here in Phuldungri. This is where your Ma offers her ‘arti’ in the evenings; this is where you all grew up. Every bit of Phuldungri is in my blood. Where shall I go? This is my home. This is where I belong.” Rumi knew that. She had her own roots there too. Rumi understood. 

The landing announcement broke into her thoughts. She fastened her seat belt. 

Every time Rumi came to Kolkata, she used to bubble with excitement before landing. The coconut trees, the halogen street lamps far below, - they all reminded her that she was home. No, not this time though. The last four hour flight from Hong Kong was a stressful one. She was afraid…afraid of the worst! 

She came out of the terminal after the immigration formalities. Ashim was waiting outside. She saw him. She suddenly felt her knees were giving away. 

“Dada…,” Rumi almost broke down. 

“Rumi, don’t worry…doctors are making all the tests.” 

No, Rumi would not cry. She made herself steady. 

“When are we going to visit 
Familiy in VermontFamiliy in VermontFamiliy in Vermont
Baba?” 

“In the morning. Let’s go home now.” Ashim picked up her small suitcase and they drove to Ashim’s apartment in South Kolkata. 



The next morning, they waited in the Hospital lobby until they were allowed to visit. 

“You go first,” Ashim told Rumi. Rumi walked in the room. Animesh was sitting on his bed. 

“Baba,” Rumi ran from the door towards Animesh. 

“Rumi, when did you arrive?” Animesh was astounded. There was total surprise in his eyes. Rumi lifted his arm up and pressed it to her cheeks. Ah, it feels the same as in the old days. Rumi used to listen to his stories while pressing his arm to her cheeks and go to sleep. The good old days in Phuldungri! Rumi could not talk. Animesh felt the dampness on his arm. 

“Why are you worrying Rumi? I’m doing fine.” The same old ‘Baba’, never complains! No, she won’t cry. She would be strong. 

“Tell me about your studies. Hey, have you visited any new places lately?” 

“No Baba, I was busy with my studies.” 

“Once you have a chance, make sure to see new places.” 
Photo Op - Niagara on the LakePhoto Op - Niagara on the LakePhoto Op - Niagara on the Lake

“Yes Baba, I will.” 

“And don’t worry about me; Next time you come to Phuldungri, we will go to Suvarnarekha together.” 

“Of course, Baba. You get well first. Then we will go together.” 



That trip to Suvarnarekha never happened! Three days later, Ashim woke her up around three in the morning. 

“Rumi, Baba is no more.” It was a dreadful night that Rumi would ever remember. 

Rumi was rendered speechless! She didn’t ask how it happened, when it happened. What is the point of knowing those details? The eternal truth has been announced, - ‘Baba’ is no more. That says it all. She felt that her world of Phuldungri is crumbling. With Animesh, her roots in Phuldungri are gone forever. Animesh was the last thread. The little girl that Animesh nurtured so lovingly, so caringly, is now getting uprooted. People came to visit in the morning. She was not really listening to anyone; she could not feel the people around her. She was following everything mechanically, like a robot. The only truth she knew is that her ‘Baba’ is there no more. 



It was three weeks later that Ashim told 
In a park near Flower Clock - Niagara FallsIn a park near Flower Clock - Niagara FallsIn a park near Flower Clock - Niagara Falls
her, 

“Rumi, I have to go to Ghatsila in a day or two.” 

“Why Dada?” Rumi was still in a daze. 

“I have talked to Nihar uncle. We have to settle the Phuldungri property. There is no one to look after the house.” 

Rumi knew it was coming. But she didn’t want to think about it. Phuldungri house was her last contact with the world that is disappearing fast from her life, her world of childhood. 

“I would like to come with you Dada.” 

“But, don’t you have to go back to Canada soon?” Ashim wondered. 

“Dada….” 

Ashim could see the monsoon in her eyes. 

“Ok, Rumi. Come with me then. But I am just going there for a couple of days only.” 

The train dropped them at Ghatsila station and then it disappeared beyond the rolling hills of Jharkhand. It was the same station where Rumi came hundreds of times with Animesh. And this will probably be the last time. They took a rickshaw from the station, crossed Ghatsila College and came to Phuldungri. The evening was setting in. Ashim opened the door and they crossed the courtyard. Rumi 
Famliy at the Niagara FallsFamliy at the Niagara FallsFamliy at the Niagara Falls
touched her finger to the Tulshi leaves and stood there for a moment. Ashim went to talk to Nihar uncle. Rumi entered the living room. She looked around. Everything is the same, nothing has changed, except one thing….her life. It is changed forever. 

Nihar uncle and Bhabi came. Bhabi gave Rumi a tight hug. They held each other for a long time. No, Rumi won’t cry now. This is not the time. She will have all the time in the world to cry later. Now, she wants to be alone with her home, and feel the bond for the last time. She wants to absorb the feeling in every molecule of her body so that it stays with her forever. Bhabi asked them to join for supper. When they came back after the supper, it was late in the evening; Phuldungri has long gone to sleep. Rumi was tired. She hugged her favourite set of pillows with the embroidered pillow cases. Ma made those. Her memories were haunting her, her emotions wanted to bring out tears. No, Rumi won’t cry now. She remembered the days when they had a tin roof. In the monsoon time, the downpour used to 
Tulip Garden, Niagara Falls - Mother's favouriteTulip Garden, Niagara Falls - Mother's favouriteTulip Garden, Niagara Falls - Mother's favourite
make a rhythmic “rum-jhum-rum-jhum” sound in the middle of the night. With the symphony of the midnight rain, with the comfort of her simple universe of childhood, Rumi used to slowly drift into the world of fairy tales and go to sleep. She buried her face in the pillow. It smelled ‘home’. And she was home. 

Rumi woke up before sunrise. She looked outside the window. The soft morning light was kissing the flowers and the leaves in the garden. Birds are already working out their daily plan. Everything looked so peaceful. Still, she was restless. She knew the house would be gone soon, with this garden, with the Tulsi sapling, everything. With that, her roots in Phuldungri would be gone forever. Rumi sighed! No, Rumi won’t cry now. 

She came to Animesh’s bedroom. His pajamas and kurta were still hanging from the hook. Rumi folded them with affection and kept them in the closet. She entered the garden. She touched the hibiscus leaves softly and they asked her, “Where have you been?” She whispered in their ears “did you miss me?” They replied, “Yes, we are sad; and no one waters us anymore.” Rumi watered the hibiscus 
Getting used to the North American wayGetting used to the North American wayGetting used to the North American way
and went to the mango tree. Animesh and Rumi planted the tree together when she came home two years ago. The tree has grown a bit now. She touched the tree gently, “look at you, you have grown so big”. The tree felt her sorrow and said, “Rumi, you look so sad; don’t be sad Rumi, we will be fine.” Tears came to her eyes. No, Rumi won’t cry now. She wiped the tears and said softly, “miss me no more; I will think of you all the time.” 

Her Dragon Air flight took off from Kolkata at 3:20 am. Ashim came to the airport to see her off. Every time she flew back to Canada, Rumi felt depressed. One more year wait to come back home again. But this time Rumi felt a void. She was burning inside. It was a feeling of loss of everything. She lost her father and her best friend. When she arrived here few weeks ago, she had anxiety. But she also had a hope. At the end, she lost the battle; she could not take her ‘Baba’ back home to Phuldungri as she had promised. Now, her roots would be gone forever. 
Quebec City, CanadaQuebec City, CanadaQuebec City, Canada


The flight touched down at the Hong Kong airport in the mid morning. Rumi hadn’t slept on the plane and her eyes were burning. She rinsed her face and stood near the glass pane in the transit lounge with a cup of tea. She looked outside. Everything out there looked the same as it was when she left. Only her life has changed forever. On the chessboard of life, everything else seemed to be intact, - the King, the Queen, the Knight….only Rumi has lost her trusted, precious pawn…gone forever. She was now standing in a lonely world with a big void which would never be filled again! 

It was a sunny afternoon when the Cathay Pacific flight landed in the Vancouver international airport. Rumi took a taxi to her apartment near the university campus. Once inside, she stood in front of her favourite window overlooking the park. The red and golden maple leaves were scattered across the park in a crisp fall afternoon. Rumi closed her eyes. She could see the sun going down behind the distant hills of Ghatsila, shadowy in the twilight. A somber evening was settling in Phuldungri. The hariyals have called it a 
Near St. Lawrence river, Quebec cityNear St. Lawrence river, Quebec cityNear St. Lawrence river, Quebec city
day and were flying to their nests crossing the Suvarnarekha River. Her mother lighted ‘diya’ on the altar and was singing, 

“Sangachhadhwam samvadadhwam samvo manaansi jaanataam.” 

May we march together with a common goal, with an open mind, to work in harmony. 

She looked at the sky. It was crimson red. Rumi saw Animesh was smiling at her. 

“Rumi, go on with your life. Don’t be stuck holding the memories. Celebrate life. Travel the world. I couldn’t do it myself, but I will see it through your eyes.” 

“Baba, will you stay by my side?” 

“I always did and I always will.” 

Rumi let tears run down her cheeks silently. She leaned against the window in total surrender. 

The last rays of the setting sun were kissing the tree tops. A tranquil evening announced the end of a beautiful day. 
****


Some Clarifications: 

Rumi of my story is my own reflection. My brother in Kolkata is my younger brother, and not the older one.

Tortuguero, Costa Rica - Tour Guide

“Your credit card please.” the gentleman at the front desk of the Christina Apartments asked me politely. I just arrived in San Jose from Quepos on an afternoon flight. “Sure, it’s Visa,” and I was about to take my wallet out, when I felt an arm on my right shoulder. I am usually alert during my trips and I turned around like a lightning rod to confront the intruder who I thought was laying his hand on my backpack. Surprise, surprise! I saw my friend Dipankar was standing there with a big smile. “Helllllooo”, - I gave him a high five so hard that my palm was burning. If you recall from one of my earlier blog that Dipankar and I departed our own way from Monteverde…I went towards Arenal and he went to climb Mount Chiripo…the tallest mountain in Costa Rica. 

“So, tell me about your trip. Did you climb the summit?’ I was excited. 

“Yes, I did, well it was not perfect…but I managed it.” 

“Com’on, details please!” I was teasing him. 

“Let’s first complete the check-in.” 

We spent the evening listening to each other’s experience in the last few days over dinner. His 
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story of climb was interesting, actually very interesting I should say. Perhaps, I will share the story some other time. Let’s talk now about our trip to another amazing place - Tortuguero. 

Tortuguero from San Jose 

I met so many people in the recent past who have either visited or about to make a trip to Costa Rica. Monteverde stays in the top of the list for most people. Tortuguero didn’t make it to their itinerary. I don’t know why! Tortuguero National Park is an amazing place on earth for eco tourism. I haven’t seen many places in the world where only way to travel there is by boat or flying. Few years ago I travelled to the Mangrove swamps in the delta of the Bay of Bengal, the only place on earth where tigers are man-eaters by nature. Again, the only way to travel there is by boat! But that’s a story for another day. 

**** 

It was a clear morning with a mixture of sun and cloud when the bus came to pick us up from the hotel. It’s a 7-seater and already a couple of passengers were sitting in the front. Photography is 

The bus rolled along the highway 32 towards Cariari…some 2.5 hours drive from San Jose. Soon we left the city limit and the bus was cruising along the vast banana plantations towards Cariari. We stopped at a couple of places – once to check out the banana plantations and then to check out a lazy sloth on top of a tree. A bus load of people also pulled up, who normally wouldn’t care less when they see such a non-descriptive creature in a confined environment like a zoo. But when such a sight comes up during a trip or something like that, all hell breaks loose! People with their sophisticated DSLR cameras fitted with the impressive zoom lenses started running around just to get a glimpse of the animal. I am also not excluded from such a frenzy, although I just carry a half-decent point and shoot that goes in my jeans pocket. The bus stopped in Cariari for a short while and then started towards La Pavona where the boat leaves for Turtuguero. We 
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arrived at La Pavona around 11:30 am and we were guided to a boat where others also joined. Peter, a man with British accent was in charge of our boat of 20 people. It’s not a luxury boat by any means and we settled on the wooden benches of the boat. I took the front bench and Peter allowed me to go the starboard to take some panoramic shots. 

I loved every minute of the 2 hours boat ride to Tortuguero. We travelled along the swirling grey coloured river in the high tide. The dense rain forest on both sides was touching the river. I could spot croc resting on the logs by the river side, herons were searching for fish, and Capuchin monkeys were jumping on the branches of the tall trees. It’s not the vastness of the river that made me awed, but it’s the eerie feeling that I will ever remember the journey. Peter was giving a running commentary about the rivers. I asked him, 

“Peter, what is there beyond the jungles?” 

Peter gave me a sideways look and said “More jungles.” 

“Does anyone ever trek on these jungles?” 

“Whoever goes never 

“You can give it a try, but it would be a one way ticket, my friend.” he said flatly. 

The boat arrived at the Tortuguero village in the afternoon. It was a short walk to our hotel from the dock. It’s a family run hotel and the owner used to live in Canada long time ago. There was a lady in the front desk. 

“Hola,” I said, “We have a reservation.” 

She checked the register, looked at us and confirmed with a smiling face, 

“You have two rooms reserved. Enjoy your stay!” 

We went out for a walk after leaving our luggage in the room. By no means it’s a town…rather, it’s a village alright. But I loved it. Narrow roads, sometimes not even paved, flowers everywhere, Durians were hanging from the trees, non-descriptive simple houses of the villagers, a village school with a soccer field, .…it’s the portrait of an easy going life style that I thrive for so often. No stress, no cosmetic make up of a city life, a serene, tranquil life style of a small village strip that is surrounded by the 
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rivers on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other. I crave for such a life style where I don’t have to join the rat race for everyday living and I don’t have to fight the road rage and traffic in everyday commute. The people here don’t have huge ambitions that we call “success”; they live a life that is shaped by the eco-system of Tortuguero; go fishing in the morning to the sea or maintain a small grocery store to cater the needs of the boat-load of the tourists that arrive here few times a day. July-October is the season when the sea turtles lay their eggs on the beaches. January is the low season and not many tourists were around, and it was a lazy afternoon that we strolled around the village. 

“I want to take a dip in the Caribbean.” I said 

“Have you already forgotten what happened to you in Manual Antonio? You don’t even know how to swim, you fool.” Dipankar snapped back. “Besides, the sea is rough here.” 

I have been always stubborn, “I won’t go too far,” I told him. I quickly changed and went for a dip in 
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the Caribbean. A bit deeper inside the sea when water level reached to my chest, I could feel the current and I quickly came back to the shore. It felt good after the dip. Back in the hotel, we settled in the porch with our drinks and watched a beautiful day slowly faded away beyond the Tortuguero River. Few people were boating in the river at a far distance, their silhouette figures drifting towards the vast green horizon of Tortuguero. These are the special moments I treasure for my rainy days to get me going. 

“Hey, are you guys interested to go for a night walk in the swamp?” Paul the hotel owner came and asked us. I suddenly remembered what Peter told me in the boat from La Pavona to Tortuguero – “It’s only one way ticket, my friend”. Paul laughed and assured me, “no sweat pal, you’ll come back”. Dipankar asked from the side, “Also, how about a boat trip in the morning to enjoy the rivers and the rain forests?” I have to admit, this guy comes up with some bright ideas in rare occasions! “Deal”, Paul told me and asked us to get ready. 
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It was pitch dark when our boat slowly anchored close to the swamp in high tide. Daniel, our captain cum guide told us, we will be out of the swamp in a couple of hours before the water level drops down. Otherwise, we spend the night in the swamp! “You kidding, let’s get going,” I thought. We were wearing high rubber boots to walk through the swamp. With us, also came a family of three. The husband and wife are both biologists. Their lovely little daughter was showing her enthusiasm at every little insect that we were discovering on our way. I was convinced that she is also growing up to be a future biologist. We were trying to track down the poisonous frogs and the nocturnal lives in the swamp. To me, thumping in the swamp in pitch darkness was good enough to give me some low dose excitement of Indiana Jones! 

We were back in the village around 9:00 pm. The village roads were deserted except some stray dogs. Tortuguero has long gone to sleep. Dipankar and I didn’t have dinner and we were hungry. It didn’t take us long to search the entire village. Nada! Finally, 

“Do you know any place where we could have a quick bite?” 

“All are closed.” One of the girls replied. But the other girl came to us and told us in clear English, 

“You are welcome to sit. I will make some food for you; you look so hungry.” 

I couldn’t believe my ears! Is she my mother? How did she know that we were hungry? I read long time ago somewhere, that all women in this world have the mother instinct. And perhaps so! I have seen this over and over again in the streets of Cambodia, mountains in Vietnam, villages in Thailand, towns in India and now, in this obscure village in Tortuguero. This amazes me! There are certain qualities in life, some unparallel humanity within women that we can only acknowledge with gratitude. “Thank You”, is never good enough! Once again, my head bowed down in gratitude to this
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young girl, and to the entire womanhood in this world! 

“You have to wait a bit and it will be a simple meal,” she said. Such a young girl, but so much matured humanity! Why can’t everyone be like that? We don’t need much in life; - a little bit of love, a touch of compassion and this world would be such a better place to live in! The girl stood in front of us to make sure we don’t leave hungry. My eyes welled with tears. I had my best dinner of the tour that night. 

It was an early morning boat ride next day before sunrise. Still the mist was rising from the Tortuguero River; birds were chirping everywhere, jasmine flowers spreading the lovely smell. I always cherish these lovely mornings at the crack of dawn. Ah, it feels so great! The whole world feels so serene, so pure, and so sacred. The dust on the ground, leaves of the trees, rising mist from the river, - they all remind me that how fortunate I am to wake up and see another lovely morning in this beautiful world that we live in. In times like this, 
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I want to be alone to absorb the softness of the breeze around me and the serenity of the early morning smell. But it was time to board the boat, no time for soul searching. The gentle ride through the rain forest, the reflection of the green lives on the tranquil water in lagoons, the herons on the tree tops, - it was a perfect portrait of a collage that Mother Nature creates every day for us. We forget to watch. We forget to take a deep breath of the morning mist. 

We returned at the right time for a tempting homemade breakfast with toast, eggs and orange juice. It was a lovely morning. 

**** 

We spent the day lazily strolling around. There was nothing much to do…a complete day of relaxation after plenty of zip-lining and mountain climbing. Now this is the funny part! Dipankar and I were sitting on a rock at the middle of the village square and watched people go by. A couple of stray dogs were hanging around us hoping for food which we didn’t have. There was a road nearby. We were betting on the people who would turn right on 
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the road and who would turn left. Dollar a person! I was winning when an elderly person came to us, totally bewildered. I looked at him wondering what he is up to when he said, 

“Well, I lost my hotel.” 

“How could you lose your hotel? Which hotel?” 

“It’s a resort type hotel”. 

“What’s the name?” 

“I don’t know, my wife knows.” 

“Where is your wife?” 

“She is in the hotel. And she has the direction.” Great! That helps a lot, I thought! 

“Then how did you come here?” I asked. 

“Well I took a boat tour and they dropped me to a wrong spot and left. Are you the village information guys?” Now I understood why he came to us. Two vagabonds sitting on a rock in the middle of the village doing nothing and they look Latino – what else could they be? Must be the tour guides! 

I wished he could remember the name of the hotel where he was staying. We took him to the REAL information center, five minute walk from there. The next boat would be around 4:00 pm, they told; so be it, 
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finally the couple would be reunited, I told Dipankar. That was our good karma for the day other than betting in the afternoon. 

**** 

All good times have to come to an end. Our flight back to San Jose was early in the morning. The boat came to take us to the airport, only 5-10 minutes ride to the airport. It’s a sleepy village airstrip by the Caribbean. We were first to arrive in the airstrip. When we took off amid a misty sunrise, Tortuguero village was still asleep, guarded by its ever flowing rivers and the rain forest. Suddenly I felt a void, a nostalgic feeling towards a place that I have fallen in love with. It’s a special moment that I didn’t feel for other places in Costa Rica. Perhaps it’s the simplicity of the village that embraced me without any vanity; perhaps it’s the unique landscape of Tortuguero that sparked my desire to live in this world for ever, or, is it the touch of heart from a young little girl who made sure I don’t leave her place hungry that night,- I don’t know. But I sure left a part of me in Tortuguero 
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that would remain there forever, mingled with its dust and swamps and the flowers and its rain forest. I pressed my face to the window to get a last glimpse of my beloved Tortuguero, fading away fast in the morning mist. I realized I was lip-singing to a song that was buzzing in my head with soft sadness, 

“…my heart is down, 

My head is turning round, 

I have to leave a little girl in the Kingston Town…” 

Yes, I’ll be back again…sometime…someday.